Argentina & Chile Birding and Mammal trip report
Guide: Nick Buys
This is a brief birding and mammal trip report from a recent Argentina and Chile tour with a small group. The main targets of the trip, around which the itinerary was designed, were Puma and Orca. For this, we focused on two main areas: Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and Peninsula Valdés in Chubut Province, Argentina. Both are iconic bucket-list mammals and high on most naturalists’ wish lists.
We also explored additional birding and mammal species throughout these regions. The trip was very successful, with four Puma sightings and two Orca sightings, including the famous beaching behaviour they use when hunting South American sea lions.
General Lavalle Area – Pre-trip
As most of the group had been to Argentina before, we organised a short two-day pre-trip to the Pampas area of General Lavalle, about two hours southeast of Buenos Aires. We had a very small list of target birds and mammals and focused primarily on these, with everything else seen as a bonus.
We were picked up from the airport around 03:30 and made our way south, stopping for a quick breakfast and coffee. We soon reached our first location — a short dirt road just off the highway — and what a spectacular start it was.
Less than three minutes after heading down the gravel road, we saw a melanistic Geoffroy’s Cat sitting in the middle of the road. While photographing it, we noticed it was focused on something at the roadside. Soon, our second major mammal target appeared: a Lesser Grison.
The two animals interacted, with the grison repeatedly approaching the cat, which became defensive and struck out at it. The grison largely ignored this and continued hunting Brazilian guinea pigs, which were watching nearby. A Pampas Fox was seen in the same area, adding to the excitement.
It soon got even better when our main bird target, a Hudson’s Canastero, was seen close to the road.
Other species recorded included Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Austral Negrito, Spectacled Tyrant, Bearded Tachuri, Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Campo Flicker, Shiny Cowbird, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Firewood-gatherer, Long-winged Harrier, Greater Rhea, Hellmayr’s Pipit, Brown-chested Martin, Grey-breasted Martin, and White-rumped Swallow.
That afternoon, evening, and the following morning, we focused on a wetland area where Coypu were common along the roadside. Our main mammal target was the Crawling Swamp Rat, which we located using thermal scopes, giving excellent views. South American Painted-snipe were also seen using the same method.
Other mammals included Southern White-eared Opossum, European Hare, and Molina’s Hog-nosed Skunk.
From a birding perspective, we found our main target, the Stripe-backed Bittern, with at least three individuals observed. This was a highly productive wetland with key species including Southern Screamer, Coscoroba Swan, Black-necked Swan, Black-headed Duck, Silver Teal, Yellow-billed Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Plumbeous Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Red-fronted and Red-gartered Coot, Limpkin, American Golden Plover, Black-necked Stilt, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, White-rumped Sandpiper, Brown-hooded Gull, Black Skimmer, White-tufted Grebe, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Whistling Heron, Cocoi Heron, Snail Kite, Many-coloured Rush Tyrant, Sooty Tyrannulet, Chilean Flamingo, and Brown-and-yellow Marshbird.
We also spent time closer to the coast where we successfully located Dot-winged Crake, giving excellent views. Additional species included Green-barred Woodpecker, American Barn Owl, White-tailed Kite, Roadside Hawk, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, Monk Parakeet, Gilded Hummingbird, White-throated Hummingbird, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Yellow-winged Blackbird, and Creamy-bellied Thrush.
A coastal lagoon produced Royal and Common Tern, Great Grebe, Neotropic Cormorant, Kelp Gull, Brown-hooded Gull, Hudsonian Godwit, American Oystercatcher, American Golden Plover, Chilean Flamingo, and both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs.
On the return journey to Buenos Aires, we made several short detours, producing Spotted Nothura, Small-billed Elaenia, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Vermilion Flycatcher, Hooded Siskin, White-banded Mockingbird, White-crested Tyrannulet, Guira Cuckoo, Brazilian Teal, and Screaming Cowbird. A Yellow Pygmy Rice Rat was the only new mammal.
We enjoyed a fantastic dinner in Buenos Aires before preparing for our flight the following morning.
Patagonia – El Calafate
We then flew to El Calafate, beginning the Patagonia section of the trip. After settling in, we targeted one of the most sought-after birds in South America: the Magellanic Plover. Despite it being late in the season, we eventually found a pair, giving excellent views.
Other species included Upland Goose, Flying Steamer Duck, Crested Duck, Chiloe Wigeon, Coscoroba Swan, Black-necked Swan, Baird’s Sandpiper, Chilean Flamingo, Black-faced Ibis, Cinereous Harrier, Patagonian Mockingbird, and Grey-hooded Sierra Finch.
An early morning exploration of the Patagonian steppe produced excellent birding, including Least Seedsnipe, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Rufous-banded Miner, Buff-winged Cinclodes, Cordilleran Canastero, Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Grey-hooded Sierra Finch, Mourning Sierra Finch, Correndera Pipit, and Patagonian Yellow-Finch.
Mammals included Magellanic Tuco-tuco, Guanaco, Molina’s Hog-nosed Skunk, South American Grey Fox, and Hairy-soled Mouse.
The drive to the Chilean border continued to deliver wildlife, including large numbers of Guanaco and a sighting of Large Hairy Armadillo. Birds included Andean Condor, Lesser Rhea, Chilean Flicker, Fire-eyed Diucon, and Crested Caracara.
After an uneventful border crossing and hotel check-in, we explored a nearby lake and forest edge, recording Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Flicker, Black-faced Ibis, Austral Blackbird, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Chilean Flamingo, Red-gartered Coot, Yellow-billed Teal, Silver Teal, Flying Steamer Duck, Upland Goose, Lesser Rhea, Coscoroba Swan, and Black-necked Swan.
Torres del Paine – Pumas
The next few days focused on Puma tracking in Torres del Paine National Park. Alongside local Puma guides, we spent many hours searching known territories and waiting at confirmed sighting areas.
This is one of the most elusive big cats in the Americas, but Torres del Paine has become one of the best places in the world to observe them.
We recorded four separate sightings, including:
- A female with three cubs
- A female successfully hunting an Upland Goose
- Another female observed for over five hours
Other wildlife included South American Grey Fox and Culpeo Fox, with Guanaco present throughout as the main prey species.
Birding was secondary but still rewarding, with Lesser Rhea, Torrent Duck, Andean Condor, Striped Woodpecker, Austral Pygmy Owl, Cinereous Harrier, Austral Parakeet, Buff-winged Cinclodes, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Austral Thrush, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird, and White-winged Coot.
A short stop near Puerto Natales added Magellanic Oystercatcher, Dolphin Gull, Imperial Cormorant, and others.
Peninsula Valdés – Orcas
We then flew to Trelew and continued to Puerto Madryn, where we recorded Burrowing Parakeet, Magellanic Penguin, South American Tern, Sandwich Tern, Turkey Vulture, Harris’s Hawk, Variable Hawk, and a group of at least 40 Manx Shearwaters offshore.
From here, we entered Peninsula Valdés, the highlight of the trip for marine mammals.
Our main objective was the Orca hunting behaviour, where orcas intentionally beach themselves to catch young South American sea lions before sliding back into the water.
We had multiple encounters:
- Orcas passing close to shore on calm observation days
- A spectacular beaching event with a large male observed hunting
- Another pod passing very close to shore
Other mammals included Patagonian Mara, European Hare, South American Grey Fox, Large Hairy Armadillo, Southern Mountain Cavy, and Guanaco.
Birding included Lesser Rhea, Elegant-crested Tinamou, Darwin’s Nothura, Magellanic Penguin, Black-browed Albatross, Southern Giant Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Manx Shearwater, Imperial, Magellanic and Neotropic Cormorants, Burrowing Owl, Chilean Swallow, Sanderling, Peregrine Falcon (hunting Least Seedsnipe), Grassland Yellow-Finch, Austral Negrito, Band-winged Nightjar, and Aplomado Falcon.
Summary
Overall, this was an extremely successful trip with all major targets achieved. It is an ideal itinerary for naturalists seeking Puma, Orca, and the highlights of Patagonia in a single journey. Extensions to Ushuaia or northern Chile can easily be arranged.
