Brazil Birding and Mammal tour trip report: Amazon and the Pantanal
Guide: Nick Buys
This is a short trip report of our recent Nature Travel Birding and Nature Travel Expeditions tour to Brazil. We did a pre tour to the Amazon with some of the group before the main tour to the Pantanal.
Amazon Pre-tour:
Our pre tour extension started at Cristalino Lodge and Amazon Sanctuary protecting a tract of pristine rainforest along the beautiful Cristalino River north of Alta Floresta in the state of Mato Grosso.
Our flight arrived at lunchtime and after our road and boat transfer we quickly dropped our bags and had a couple of hours left to start our birding. As the afternoons are generally hot and pretty slow on the trails we decided to visit a hide overlooking a small waterhole. This turned out to be very productive with Razor-billed Curassow, Dark-winged Trumpeter, Saturnine, Cinereous and Spot-winged Antshrikes, the beautiful Bare-eyed and Dot-backed, Common and Xingu Scale-backed Antbirds, White-chinned, Spix’s and Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Ochre-bellied and Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager and White-winged Shrike-Tanager all showing up.
The stars of the show however were Snow-capped and White-crowned Manakins that both showed very well.
Back on the river we caught up with the common species that we would see on several of the boat rides including Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Black-fronted Sunbird, Neotropic Cormorant, Limpkin and Swallow-winged Puffbird. Red-and-green Macaw gave us a quick flyby. We decided to visit a clay lick near the lodge once it was dark and this was very productive with a pair of South American Tapir seen well and on the way back we found Blackish Nightjar and Common Pauraque.
The following morning at first light we made our way up a small rocky outcrop in deciduous forest overlooking the canopy of evergreen forest and the combination of habitats produced spectacular results with a constant procession of new species which included White-bearded Hermit, Black-throated Mango, Black-eared Fairy, Versicoloured Emerald, Tiny Hawk, Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, Brown-banded and Eastern Striolated Puffbird, Black-girdled Barbet, Lettered, Chestnut and Red-necked Aracari, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucan, Yellow-tufted, Lineated and Red-stained Woodpecker, Black-faced Antbird, Spangled Cotinga, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Euler’s, Short-crested and Brown-crested Flycatcher, Red-billed Pied Tanager, Green Oropendola, Masked, Paradise and Turquoise Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Green Honeycreeper and Yellow-rumped Cacique. The Parrots, Macaws and Parakeets gave us a proper show with Golden-winged, White-eyed and Santarem’s Parakeets, Kawall’s and Blue-headed Parrot, Dusky-billed Parrotlet, Scarlet and Chestnut-fronted Macaws all making an appearance.
Back on the river we added Sunbittern, Capped Heron, Striated Heron, Green Ibis, Great Black Hawk, Ringed, Amazon and Green Kingfisher, Paradise Jacamar and Greater Yellow-headed Vulture. As it was getting hot we made a quick stop at the start of another trail where we found Collared Trogon, Blue-cheeked Jacamar, Greenish Elaenia, Rusty-margined Flycatcher and another Sunbittern.
That afternoon we made our way to the Teles Pires River and a few small islands where we were looking for more open areas and river specialties and had a pretty productive outing with Pied Plover, Yellow-billed and Large-billed Tern, Boat-billed Heron, Black Skimmer, Southern Lapwing, Plumbeous Kite, Wattled Jacana, Red-throated and Black Caracara, Glossy and Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Red-capped Cardinal, Black-faced Dacnis, Drab Water Tyrant and Black-collared Swallow. We flushed several roosting Ladder-tailed Nightjars and saw a Bat Falcon and 2 Lesser Nighthawks on the way back. With the help of the spotlight we found both Spectacled and Dwarf Caimans.
The following morning we made our way to the first of two canopy towers that Cristalino is famous for. We were there at first light and after catching our breath from climbing a lot of stairs and the incredible view the show started. Spix’s Guan, Black-faced Hawk, Curl-crested Aracari, Gould’s Toucanet, White-bellied and Red-fan Parrot, Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Banded Antbird, Pompadour Cotinga, White-browed Purpletuft, White-lored Tyrannulet, Forest Elaenia, Greyish Mourner, Flame-crested Tanager, Short-billed and Purple Honeycreeper and Yellow-back Tanager were all new birds seen and we enjoyed great sightings and photographic opportunities of some the specials seen yesterday.
A Variegated Tinamou was a bonus on the way back to the boat. After a quick break we used the last bit of the morning to explore a short trail where we found our main target, the Flame-crowned Manakin. We also got good views of Rusty-winged Antwren, Golden-winged Parakeet, Ringed Woodpecker, Razor-billed Curassow and a Great Black Hawk on the way back to lodge. We did see another Tapir coming in to a clay lick offering great day time views of this normally nocturnal species. During lunch an Ornate Hawk-eagle was seeing soaring overhead and Crimson-bellied Parakeet was seen in the trees near the restaurant. One of the features of this lodge is to see Bare-faced Curassow very relaxed around the rooms and restaurant area.
Our afternoon started with a very confiding Bar-breasted Piculet and Amazonian Streaked-Antwren. We decided to visit another waterhole where Black-breasted Gnateater was seen recently. This is a very tough bird to see on the trails so might be our only chance to see this stunning bird. While we waited we saw Plain-throated Antwren, Cinereous and Spot-winged Antshrike, Blackish, Band-tailed, Xingu Scale-backed and Bare-eyed Antbirds, Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper, Rufous-rumped and Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner, Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Band-tailed Manakin, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher and Red-crowned Ant-Tanager. Not a bad list for a couple of hours around the waterhole. We were about to leave when the Gnateater showed up and wow what an incredible beautiful bird and well worth the wait. We did see many Short-tailed Nighthawks on the way back to the lodge.
The following morning we had the opportunity to visit the other canopy tower and although we had a tough morning with unusually cold and windy conditions causing the birding to be slow, we still had a few very good birds. Some of the highlights include Kawall’s, White-bellied, Red-fanned and Blue-headed Parrot, Blue-and-yellow, Chestnut-fronted, Scarlet and Red-and-green Macaw, Santarem and White-eyed Parakeet, Wedge-billed and Long-billed Woodcreeper, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Spangled Cotinga, Masked Tityra, White-lored Tyrannulet, Grey-chested and Dusky-capped Greenlet, Long-billed Gnatwren, Tooth-billed Wren, Chivi Vireo, Red-billed Pied Tanager and Black-faced Dacnis. The highlight however was a stunning male Pompadour Cotinga. What a truly spectacular bird. On the way back we had Double-toothed Kite, Paradise and Blue-cheeked Jacamar, King Vulture and Swallow-winged Puffbird. A short afternoon walk produced Spix’s Guan, White-crested Spadebill and Band-tailed Manakin.
The next morning we decided to visit a patch of dry deciduous forest with a beautiful walk hoping for a few new species. We had a few good hummingbirds with Amethyst Woodstar, Gould’s Jewelfront, Black-eared Fairy, White-chinned Sapphire and Fork-tailed Woodnymph. A few other interesting species we found include Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, Channel-billed Toucan, Curl-crested Aracari, Spotted Puffbird, Natterer’s Slay-Antshrike, Spix’s Warbling-Antbird, White-eyed Stipplethroat, Dusky-capped and Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Helmeted and Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant, Ochre-lord Flatbill, Dusky-chested Flycatcher, Golden-bellied Euphonia, Opal-rumped Tanager and Slate-coloured Grosbeak. White we were birding on one of the trails a call came in that a Harpy Eagle was spotted next to the river. Without hesitation we ran to the boat and made our way downstream as quickly as possible hoping that it would stay. After what felt like an eternity we rounded corner and there she was, sitting in the big tree looking down at us. What an incredible bird and a birding highlight for any birder. Definitely not a moment anyone in this group would forget.
Our afternoon walk on one of the many forest trails around the lodge was productive with Black-bellied Cuckoo, Rufous-capped Nunlet, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Cinereous Antshrike, Long-winged Antwren, Alta Floresta Antpitta, Grey Antwren and Red-headed Manakin seen together with some of the usual suspects. An interesting mammal sighting was a big group of White-lipped Peccary. I love the snapping sound they make and they can be intimidating. A Red Brocket deer was seen as well and to date we have seen Brown Capuchin, White-whiskered Spider Monkey and Azara’s Night Monkey. A very relaxed Giant Otter allowed for a great photographic opportunity.
On the day of our departure we had a couple of hours and we decided to go to one of the towers again and although we did see many of the same species mentioned before we did see Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-necked Aracari, Red-necked and Cream-coloured Woodpecker, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin, White-browed Purpletuft, Flame-crested Tanager, White-shouldered Tanager and a beautiful male Spangled Cotinga. It was unfortunately time to leave but had a fantastic time at the lodge and exploring the stunning Amazon Rainforest surrounding it. The diversity of habitats and amount of trails does make this one of the top birding destinations in the southern Amazon.
The Pantanal:
From here it was time for the group to join the rest and start our Pantanal birding and wildlife adventure where the main focus was on the mammals and not just the birds.
The first night was more of a tourism and adventure stop in the Nobres and Bom Jardin area. Once we left Cuiaba we had 5 Greater Rhea en route and at our lunch stop we had the first of the more common Chapada habitat birds such as Scaled Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Buff-necked Ibis, Burrowing Owl, Rufous Hornero, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Vermilion flycatcher and Blue-gray Tanager.
It was time for some adventure, hiking to a waterfall and for those keen a zip-line back down followed by snorkeling in the incredible enchanted Lagoon with its crystal clear water and great diversity of freshwater fish. We did off course bird as we toured and did pick up Red-legged Seriema, Toco Toucan, White-throated Toucan, Lettered Aracari, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Yellow-faced and Yellow-crowned Parrot, Band-tailed Manakin, Laughing Falcon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Black-fronted Nunbird, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Green-barred Woodpecker, Buff-throated and Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Curl-crested Jay, Orange-backed Troupial, Gray-headed Tanager, Red-shouldered Macaw, Bare-faced Curassow, Chestnut-bellied Guan and Crested Caracara. A quick stop at a small reservoir turned out to be very productive with some of the highlights including Amazon Kingfisher, Bare-faced Ibis, Green Ibis, Cocoi Heron, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Sunbittern, Whistling Heron, Snowy Egret, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Pied Plover, Brazilian Teal, White-faced and Black-bellied Whistling Duck. Six-banded Armadillo was a nice mammal to end the day.
From here we made our way to Chapada dos Guimaraes where a quick roadside stop produced Cinnamon and Hooded Tanager, Red-crested Finch and Short-crested Flycatcher.
After lunch in town we made our way to the stunning viewpoint from the escarpment which is also the geographic centre of the continent. After the necessary photographs we did do a quick birding walk picking up Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Plain-crested Elaenia, Planalto Tyrannulet, Crested Black-Tyrant, Burnished-buff Tanager, Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch and Black-throated Saltator to mention a few.
The following morning a few of us were up pre dawn and spent a short time exploring a patch of woodland which the owners are trying to run into a birding hotspot and did mange to see Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Amazonian Motmot, Pale-crested Woodpecker, Masked Tityra, Crested Becard and a Thrush-like Wren. After breakfast we start started making our way south but not before a quick stop in the Chapada where we found our main target, the Chapada Flycatcher. Other interesting species include Plain-crested Elaenia, White-banded Tanager, Grassland Yellow-Finch, Plumbeous Seedeater and Red-crested Finch. Although the water levels were low we did visit a nearby waterfall where we did see King Vulture, White-collared Swift, White-tailed Hawk, Blue-and-white Swallow, Swallow and White-lined Tanager. Lunch was a treat at a local Brazilian Barbecue with a massive selection of delicious meats and salads.
It was time to get into the Pantanal and our first stop was Pouse Alegro area which his about 20km from the main entrance and we used this road to start our birding and wildlife viewing. At the first wetland spots we quickly found Southern Screamer, Muscovy Duck, Chaco Chacalaca, Bare-faced Curassow, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Black Skimmer, Wattled Jacana, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Tern, Jabiru, Wood Stork, Capped Heron, Cocoi Heron, Bare-faced, Buff-necked and Plumbeous Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Black-collared Hawk, Savanna Hawk, Great Black Hawk, Crested Caracara and Yellow-billed Cardinal. We did see our first proper Pantanal Wildlife with Caiman, Capybara, Azara’s Agouti, Brazilian Guinea Pig and South American Coati. Our main mammal target here was the Lowland Tapir and after a quick dinner we went on a night drive where we had a very successful few hours with several Tapirs, Crab-eating Fox, Crab-eating Racoon and a Southern Tamandua or Anteater. From a birding point of view we found Little Nightjar, Pauraque, Great and Common Potoo.
With our main target seen some of the group decided to do a morning pre breakfast birding walk around the lodge to a nearby wetland and some of the species we found include Undulated Tinamou, Rusty-margined Guan, White-throated and Red-throated Piping-Guan, Toco Toucan, Turquoise-fronted Parrot, Mato Grosso Antbird, Great rufous Woodcreeper, Pale-legged Hornero, White-lored Spinetail, Helmeted Manakin, Rufous Casiornis, Purplish Jay, Solitary Black Cacique, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Variable Oriole, Chopi Blackbird, Grayish Baywing, Flavescent Warbler, Grey-headed Tanager and once we got back to the lodge we had a pair of Hyacinth Macaws which is one of the most sought after birds in the world. What a way to start the day.
After breakfast and loading our luggage it was time to continue further south towards the Porto Jofre area and Jaguarland via the famous Transpantaneira road. We stopped at several drying pools and the diversity of water birds were fantastic with excellent views of similar species mentioned earlier. To mention a few highlights were close up Jabiru, Green, Buff-necked and plumbeous Ibis, Wood Stork, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Monk Parakeet, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Turquoise-fronted Parrot, Black-capped Donacobius and a large mixed flock of Black Vulture and Crested Caracara feasting on fish trapped in the drying pond.
We arrived at our lodge for a late lunch and after a quick rest we got back in the boat for our first cruise which was an excellent introduction to the wildlife of the Meeting of the Rivers State Park. Some of the good birds seen include Anhinga, Neotropic Cormorant, Boat-billed Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Striated Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Ringed, Amazon and Green Kingfisher, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Black-backed Water-Tyrant, Lesser Kiskadee, White-throated Kingbird, Solitary Black Cacique and a lot of the species mentioned earlier. This is a truly a birding paradise with activity all the time while out on the water. On the way back we had plenty of Nacunda and Band-tailed Nighthawks flying around.
We then had two full days to explore with the main aim to find Jaguar and early on the first full day morning we had a our first sighting with a mating pair that were pretty secretive and made us work hard for a few quick views but we were off the mark and we ended up with 12 Jaguars seen in the Porto Jofre area as well as two more later further north on the Transpantaneira Road. We had another female sleeping next to the water in the shade enjoying the cool air from the water, one male walking along the bank all to ourselves. We had a great sighting with a relaxed male sleeping in a low hanging tree giving us incredible close up views. The highlight was a male that walked along the shore for al long period before entering the watering and diving under all the fallen branches looking for Caiman or Terrapins.
Incredible to see them swimming and no wonder this is the best place to see the biggest feline in the Americas and third biggest in the world after Tiger and Lion. We saw plenty of Greater Capybara, Marsh Deer, Yacare Caiman, Lesser Sac-winged Bat, Black-and-gold Howler Monkey and another Lowland Tapir leaving the water as we rounded a corner.
The birding continued to be brilliant with some of the new species including Peach-fronted Parakeet, Snail Kite, Limpkin, Black-fronted Nunbird, White-wedged Piculet, White Woodpecker, Greater Thornbird, Crane Hawk, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Gray-breasted Martin, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Giant Cowbird, Long-winged Harrier, Bluish-grey Saltator, Pied Plover, Black Skimmer, Laughing Falcon, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Masked Gnatcatcher, Golden-green Woodpecker, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Rusty-fronted today-Flycatcher and Caatinga Cacholote.
Unfortunately it was time to leave but we had one more stop at the impressive Puival Lodge are in the northern Pantanal where we had two more big animal targets in Green Anaconda and Giant Anteater. This lodge is home to a variety of habitats offering people a chance to add several species to their lists. It is however best known for the open areas with a lot of termite mounds home to several Giant Anteaters. The best time to see them is to start around dawn when they finish their activities and foraging for the night. We did two drives and on both mornings we had good views of this weird looking but incredible mammal. On one of the mornings we also had another Lesser Tamandua (Anteater) as well. We had two Green Anaconda sightings including a massive one that was truly impressive. They offer night drives and we had a brilliant one with the highlight being a very relaxed Jaguar and then a stunning view of an Ocelot which must be one of the most beautiful small carnivores in the world. Other mammals seen here include Red Brocket Deer, Azara’s Agouti and Lowland Tapir.
The birding was very good even though we did spend most of our time looking for the key mammals. Some of the new species seen here include Yellow-olive Flatbill, White-rumped Monjita, Narrow-billed, Buff-throated and Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Campo Flicker, Lineated Woodpecker, Little Woodpecker, Whistling Heron, Glittering-throated Emerald, Squirrel Cuckoo, Brazilian Teal, Greater Rhea, Purplish Jay, Short-crested Flycatcher, Yellowish Pipit, Moustached Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Crested Oropendola, Uncoloured Blackbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Little Nightjar, Burrowing Owl and Saffron Finch.
Unfortunately it was time to depart and say goodbye to new and old friends after a fantastic couple of weeks. Brazil and especially the Pantanal and Amazon is an incredible place and I cannot wait to go back.
