Lesser Antilles Birding

The next planned group departure for the Lesser Antilles Birding tour is 2027.

Day 1:
Arrival in Antigua
Our epic Lesser Antilles birding adventure begins on the popular tourist destination of Antigua. A stunning gem in the region’s crown, the island of Antigua is a land of myriad crystal-clear bays and coves, and its residents boast of their being able to go to a different beach every day of the year and still not be able to visit them all!

Upon arrival in the early afternoon, you’ll be collected by pre-arranged transport and taken to our accommodation for the first three nights of our trip – a delightful country inn just outside of the capital city of St. John’s. After checking-in, you have time to enjoy the property’s spacious tropical gardens – perhaps picking up a selection of indigenous regional species, including Antillean Crested Hummingbird (one of five species of hummer we’ll target on this trip), Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, and subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia. Alternatively, you may wish to take a dip in the pool and enjoy a cocktail in the large open-air lounge before we come together as a group to have a welcome briefing and a delicious West Indian dinner – the first of many on our trip!

Day 2:
Antigua
With our packed breakfast, we will embark on a day trip to Antigua’s smaller ‘sister’ of Barbuda. Upon arrival, one can immediately see the stark contrast between the heavily developed and well-established tourist destination of Antigua and this little-visited island, where vast stretches of undisturbed beaches, sheltered coves, and dry coastal forests support a very different cast of characters to those we will encounter during the rest of our trip.

Our main target here will be the diminutive Barbuda Warbler. This charming warbler is perfectly at home in the dry scrublands of one of the Lesser Antilles’ driest islands and shares the habitat with species such as: Common Ground, Eared, and White-winged Doves; Black-faced Grassquit; Lesser Antillean Iguanas; and, bizarrely, herds of feral donkeys!

Barbuda is also home to the largest Magnificent Frigatebird colony in the Caribbean. These giants are most seen soaring high above the ocean, carefully scanning the waters for food floating on or close to the surface. It is, therefore, a wonderful treat to board a dinghy that will take us across a shallow lagoon teeming with marine life (as evidenced by the hundreds of jellyfish of every shape and size floating beneath us and clearly visible from our boat), where we’ll spend time in the presence of these incredible birds, observing their behaviour and watching as squadrons of adults manipulate their impressive six-to-seven-foot wingspan to return to their perches with food for their young.

Driving around the island, one cannot help but be struck by the spectacular and unspoiled natural beauty of Barbuda. The water is a glistening turquoise blue, and the colours of the sands effortlessly blend between brilliant whites and varying shades of pink. With some of the most untouched beaches in the Caribbean literally on either side of us, what better way to spend the rest of the day than to head to a charming “Robinson Crusoe-esque” beach bar to enjoy a freshly-prepared meal of mahi mahi, chicken, (or lobster if you’re feeling indulgent), followed by a relaxing swim or snorkel in shallow waters and a stroll along an idyllic white-sand beach known to be frequented by Royal and Least Terns. This truly is a case of “Birding in Paradise”!

NOTE: Participants can bring snorkels and masks on this Caribbean trip as there will be the opportunity to snorkel on some of the islands.
On our return leg across the seas to Antigua, we may have the opportunity for dolphin and whale encounters.

Day 3:
Antigua
Arriving in Montserrat, we are collected by pre-arranged transport and head into the lush forests that dominate this beautiful and little-developed island. Montserrat is affectionately known as the Second Emerald Isle, and one can circumnavigate it on foot and never leave the vast expanse of dense primary forest. A volcanic eruption in 1995 rendered half of the island uninhabitable, covered it in magma, and caused a significant proportion of the population to emigrate…but what remains is simply stunning. The volcano itself still smoulders, and is constantly monitored by volcanologists, who have declared the sparsely populated portion of the island safe for residents and visitors alike.

This is also the half of the island where we’ll find our target bird species. The striking Montserrat Oriole will be our number one goal, and we will walk a path in this ancient forest, dominated by huge emergents and long swinging lianas, until we come to reliable stands of giant heliconias, our best site for seeing orioles. We will be on the island during the build up to nesting season, so it is highly likely that such stands will reveal both the olive-green female and the fiery-breasted male.
NOTE: Walking poles can come in handy on Montserrat and 2 other islands where certain portions of the paths used can be uneven underfoot.

Although Montserrat is home to this single-island endemic, it is also the best island for homing in on Pearly-eyed Thrasher, which can prove difficult to find on other islands. However, on Montserrat it can be approached relatively closely both within, and on the outskirts of, the forest. Another target and one which will require far more patience is the secretive Forest Thrush. The Forest Thrush is a Lesser Antillean endemic, and the subspecies dorotheae is endemic here on Montserrat.

We will continue our walk through this picturesque habitat, where it is clear that the forest floor can be just as alive as the trees above. Leaves rustle everywhere; Montserrat’s Anolis lizard scuttles across the ground and clambers up tree trunks; the non-venomous and exceptionally rare Montserrat Racer warms itself in patches of sunlight; and unbelievably tiny Dwarf Geckos – no bigger than the tip of your thumb – study us with big googly eyes as they peek out from beneath the fallen leaves on the path before us.
Back at our local lunch spot, we will sit back, relax, and celebrate the day’s birding with a hearty meal and wash it down (if you so desire) with a local specialty—Bush Rum! No sugar cane is used in this one, only select local herbs and plants gathered from the forest.

Day 4:
Guadeloupe
This morning, we hop aboard our pre-arranged transport for a short jaunt to a nearby saltwater pond to do some leisurely birding, focusing on several waders, waterfowl, and herons. There is even a chance for an encounter with small flocks of West-Indian Whistling-Duck. We then return to our inn for a leisurely breakfast enjoyed with a view of White-crowned Pigeons feeding in the crowns of swaying palm trees.
In the early afternoon we arrive on the first of two French Overseas Territories – spectacular and bird-rich Guadeloupe.
As dusk approaches we stroll from the hotel to a small rewarding wetland where possibilities include nesting Little, Snowy and Cattle Egret, overwintering shorebirds and rails. Dinner is at a popular restaurant nearby.

Day 5:
Guadeloupe then onwards to St. Vincent
Waking to the smell of scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage, we tuck into a breakfast that (as we are on Guadeloupe) also includes pain au chocolat and croissants, before boarding our vans and making for the most productive birding site on the island. The Basse-Terre region of Guadeloupe is remarkable, for its forests provide glimpses of some of the more secretive species rarely seen on other islands. Almost immediately on arrival to our little known and seldom birded site, birds envelop us in a wave of colour and activity.

Brown Tremblers flit constantly in and out of a stand of mature heliconias – each seemingly intent on out-performing the other in their frenzied trembling displays! In the vicinity of these maniacal mimids Bridled Quail-Dove’s strut confidently out of the forest – providing absolutely astonishing views of a near-endemic Lesser Antillean species which on other islands adheres to its propensity to be a secretive and oft-elusive forest dweller, but which at this site offers views most would equate with Rock Doves in cities! The splendid green and purple iridescence in the neck and breast show well, as does the wonderfully painted stripe directly beneath the eye. This is a handsome bird! Strolling along well paved paths, we encounter another often-secretive Lesser Antillean endemic, hopping somewhat jerkily between nearby gazebos and peering out from beneath ridiculously sized philodendrons. Occasionally popping up onto small rocks for photo ops, these stunning Forest Thrush provide superb views of that wonderfully chevronned breast and belly – each chevron resembling a minuscule chocolate trimmed white arrowhead – and splendidly rich yellow eye ring.

As the sun rises higher, the thrushes seek shelter, but for others, the day’s activities are only just beginning – Lesser Antillean Swift wheel and cavort in an intense pursuit of insects, while Scaly-breasted as well as Pearly-eyed Thrashers and Plumbeous Warblers move in the trees that line the slowly meandering river. But there is one species we still must see before we can officially draw to a close the birding activities on this spectacular French Overseas Territory. We do not need to walk far to find our quarry. Indeed, all that is necessary is for us to cast our eyes skyward and towards any nearby dried or weathered trunk. A family of Guadeloupe Woodpecker is known to this area, and we sit back and observe this oddly plumaged endemic as it flits between feeding trees, alighting with stiff tail feathers held out to firmly anchor it in place. The timing of our tour is ideal as the birds will be nesting and therefore should be seen regularly flying back and forth with prey for their ever-demanding offspring.
Relaxing under the gazebos and watching the freshwater mullet as they school beneath the overhanging limbs of gargantuan Ficus trees, we soak up this simply spectacular setting.

Later we make a short drive to an elevated knoll with sweeping views of a river snaking beneath, where we enjoy a delicious picnic-lunch of charcuterie, fromage and pâté, accompanied by freshly-baked crusty french baguettes and washed down with a local Ti’Punch (Guadeloupe’s take on a Caipirinha), before making our way back to the hotel for a refresh and siesta before making our way to St. Vincent – the gateway to the Grenadines. Upon arrival we will be collected by pre-arranged transport and head to our local family-owned hotel on the southwestern and only white-sand shoreline of St. Vincent. Here, we will dine overlooking the swaying masts of catamarans and yachts.

Day 6:
St. Vincent then to Grenada
This morning, we will have the privilege of being one of the few groups of people on the planet to observe large numbers of St. Vincent Parrots filling the skies above us. Arriving at a secret location (known only to a handful of forestry officers), our vehicles slowly ascend into the realm of the mighty Amazona guildingii. We will strategically select our spots atop a scenic ridgeline, and from there, wait for the raucous parrots to begin leaving their roosts in search of fruit-bearing trees on which to gorge themselves for breakfast.

The St. Vincent Parrot is a species that was long on the verge of extinction and is still listed on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of the most-threatened species on the planet. So, the opportunity to have incredibly close views of this number of wild birds in their natural habitat will be one of the highlights of the trip.

From here, we make our way into the lush primary rainforests of St. Vincent’s towering La Soufrière volcano. These forests contain the best sites to see the critically endangered Whistling Warbler—one of four single-island endemic species of warbler in the region—along with a wonderful selection of near-endemics and indigenous regional species, such as Grenada Flycatcher (more reliable here than on Grenada!), Lesser Antilles Thrush, Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, the soon to be split Lesser Antillean (St. Vincent) Tanager, Spectacled Thrush, Smooth-billed Ani, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, and all-black Bananaquit – one of five distinct subspecies of Bananaquit found in the region. We will end our walk at a dry riverbed above which circle Common Black Hawk, as well as Broad-winged Hawk – subspecies antillarum, a near endemic known only to St. Vincent and Grenada. Periodically, we may have to lower our eyes from the skies to guard our snack of freshly picked fruit and plantain chips from inquisitive sapphire-headed St. Vincent Anoles!

A return to our beachside hotel sees us relax after lunch while overlooking a tranquil bay where swimming and snorkeling are both recommended. As dusk approaches we make our way to the Spice Isle of Grenada. The densely populated southern coastline of this tiny island might seem an unlikely destination on a birding trip, but this land renowned for nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger is also home to some fascinating endemic and regional species.

Upon arrival we make the short 5-minute drive to our vibrant and recently remodeled resort, where a delicious buffet dinner is enjoyed before hitting the hay.

Day 7:
Grenada
Early this morning, we drive 10 minutes from our hotel to the last remaining vestige of suitable habitat for the rarest species targeted on the entire tour: the Grenada Dove. Latest counts estimate the surviving number of Grenada Doves to be between 30 – 80! However, by drawing on experience and knowledge amassed over numerous previous trips, we should be treated to a sight few people have experienced. Arriving in the morning we will listen for the telltale mournful call and attempt to trace this to a perched bird. If the birds are calling from inaccessible locations high on the ridge, we set up position in the dry forest and patiently wait for this ground-loving species to stroll by.

After visiting the last stronghold of this delicate, unassuming dove, we will further explore the island by heading north, where dense tropical forest provides the opportunity for sightings of a wide selection of this island’s other specialities, including the Rufous-breasted Hermit, local race of Hook-billed Kite, an endemic subspecies of Green-throated Carib (chlorolaemus), the endemic subspecies of House Wren (likely, along with the other 3 endemic subspecies of house wren in the region, to be upgraded to a full species very soon), and the Grenada Tanager.

In the late afternoon, we return to our hotel, where the rest of the day is yours to enjoy strolling the nearby and stunningly beautiful beach, going for a swim in the sea or lounging by the pool. Our dinner buffet is a selection of local dishes.

After indulging in a local lunch, the afternoon presents an opportunity to unwind and savor the tranquility of our idyllic surroundings.

Day 8:
Dominica
The rugged and wonderfully wild island of Dominica is next on our journey through the magical islands of the Lesser Antilles. With its innumerable waterfalls and a river for every day of the year coursing through her vast tracts of primary rainforest, Dominica is affectionately known as “the Nature Island of the Caribbean,” and offers a snapshot into what many of the more developed islands of the region would have resembled in years gone by. What is more, it is one of only two countries in the Caribbean that is home to two endemic Amazona parrot species: the Imperial and the Red-necked Parrot (Jamaica, almost 15 times the size of Dominica, being the only other).

Upon arrival, we are collected by pre-arranged transport, and embark on a birding outing into the famed Northern Forest Reserve, where we likely won’t have to travel far before the calls of an array of wondrous Lesser Antillean species give our van cause to pull off the dirt track to investigate. Species possible during a veritable barrage of sightings of near-endemics and birds indigenous to the region may include: Lesser Antillean Euphonia and Zenaida Dove, the dazzling Purple-throated Carib, pairs of delicate Plumbeous Warblers dancing delightfully amongst the creeping vines dangling tantalisingly close to our heads, the deeply rufous endemic subspecies of House Wren, and always inquisitive Lesser Antillean Saltator. As our van climbs ever higher along the track, we scan the roadside for the albiventris subspecies of the Eastern Red-legged Thrush and Lesser Antillean Pewee. We will also see two members of the Mimid family: the largely common Tropical Mockingbird (subspecies antillarum) and the less often seen Lesser Antillean endemic Scaly-breasted Thrasher.

We wind down the day with a delicious candlelit creole dinner at sunset.

Day 9:
Dominica
We will wake to the taste of rich Dominican coffee as we set off before dawn with a packed breakfast to give ourselves the best opportunity to see one of the rarest species not only in the region, but on the entire planet: the majestic Imperial Amazon.

Deep in the cloud forest, overlooking richly forested valleys, and with the distant sound of thunderous rivers coursing far below us, we will scan the towering emergent trees for the undisputed avian monarch of this land. Its more gregarious cousin, the Red-necked Parrot, should provide far more frequent entertainment, as small flocks awaken to flutter from one fruiting tree to another. Meanwhile, the trapline habits of the near-endemic Blue-headed Hummingbird will ensure that we regularly turn our attention to small groves of Costus spictatus and flowering bromeliads. Fifty-five species of butterfly—including regional endemics such as Dominican and Godman’s Hairstreaks, Godman’s Leaf, and St. Lucia Mestra—have been recorded on Dominica. These, along with the more wide-ranging Caribbean Buckeye and Cassius Blue, will ensure that we won’t ignore sunlit areas of forest floor during our time in the forest. We spend as long this morning as needed awaiting the odd creaky metallic call of the mighty Imperial – one of the most reliable means of homing in on its position.

Lunch will be taken in the field, at the nearby and recently renovated Visitor Centre, before taking to the seas! An impressive number of cetaceans have been sighted in Dominica’s waters, and this morning we take to the seas on a quest for ocean giants! Pods of Short-finned Pilots are the most seen, while other larger species such as Humpbacks and False Killers have also been spotted swimming above this island’s deep oceanic trenches. Our primary target however is the island’s resident population of magnificent Sperm Whales (Dominica is one of only two countries in the world whose waters are home to mothers and calves year-round!). With an experienced captain at the helm, we have every chance of getting very close indeed! In addition to these behemoths, a number of dolphins are also possible, including Fraser’s, Spotted and Spinner. We take advantage of our time out on the water to scan the seas for pelagics; Dominica is one of the best islands in the region for sightings of ocean wanderers such as Cory’s, Manx and Great Shearwater, Leach’s and Wilson’s Storm Petrel.

A leisurely dinner and cocktails follow on the cliffs, before retiring for the evening.

Day 10:
Dominica then onwards to Martinique
Dawn brings with it the promise of an encounter with one of the most elegantly patterned and beautiful of all seabirds – the majestic White-tailed Tropicbird (or Tareau in Dominican Creole). The birds’ nest on cliffs close to our hotel, and given the timing of our tour, should be in the vicinity. Fly-bys of Royal Terns, Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans will hold our attention, as the tropicbirds gradually make their way back from feeding forays out to sea. As they approach ever closer, the signature lengthy tail streamers become visible, and we should be able to discern the spectacular black carpal bars and the superbly painted black bands running through the eye. Given our close location to the cliffs there is also the strong likelihood we will see them whizzing into nest cavities.

In the afternoon, we make our way to the second of the Overseas French Territories we will visit on this trip – Martinique – where dinner is enjoyed on the large open-air balcony overlooking Martinique’s impressive Fort-de-France harbor.

Day 11:
Martinique to St Lucia
By this stage in our travels along the island chain, any prior belief that a visit to one Lesser Antillean Island is akin to visiting another is likely to have vanished. The stark differences in topography, culture, industry and development along with the varied socio-economic differences in populations ensure that a visit to the islands of the Lesser Antilles is very much an exploration of 10 very individual and unique islands.

The small bistros and cafes that line the main courtyard of the thriving capital city of Fort-de-France and the feverish games of boules played on well-manicured pitches are unlike anything we will have seen on previous islands and are testimony to the island’s French influence.

Martinique is the oldest of the islands in the Lesser Antilles, and it therefore makes sense that it is here that we will encounter the nominate of three of those species that have filtered out to other islands over time – the Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Grey Trembler and Rufous-throated Solitaire. But the island also boasts a stunning single-island endemic in Icterus bonana, the Martinique Oriole. While in some truly spectacular primary forest, we will also be looking for Black-whiskered Vireo and Blue-headed Hummingbirds (in case this delightful near-endemic hummer should prove elusive in Dominica), as well as targeting the striking rufous-hooded “Mangrove Warbler” and Ruddy Quail Dove.

After lunch, we trade lush tropical forest for dry coastal forest and an audience with an entirely new cast of characters – headlined by the near-endemic White-breasted Thrasher. An evening jaunt to St. Lucia – ‘the Island of Inspiration’ – follows.

Day 12:
St Lucia
After an early breakfast, we head out to see one of the last thriving populations of the threatened near-endemic White-breasted Thrasher, and other inhabitants of the dry Atlantic Forest in which it resides, such as the highly coveted St. Lucia Black-Finch and curious Mangrove Cuckoo.

We then continue into the mountainous interior and island’s showpiece natural attraction: the sprawling Des Cartiers Rainforest. Des Cartiers is dominated by numerous trees endemic to the region including the majestic and aromatic Lansan along with gargantuan tree ferns, tiny bromeliads, and orchids. We will spend the rest of the morning here, walking the well-maintained (but in parts uneven underfoot) trails and identifying the wondrous diversity of flora all around us. Our forest walk culminates at an observation area, where we will be afforded excellent views of the island’s national bird – and most colorful of all Amazonas – the magnificent St. Lucia Parrot. At this site, we will also be in the presence of a number of other deep-forest dwellers. With luck, the ethereal song of the Rufous-throated Solitaire and the high-pitched note of the Lesser Antillean Euphonia will reveal their location and will be intermingled with appearances by Grey Tremblers and Lesser Antillean Flycatchers.

We finish a memorable day on St. Lucia by driving to the top of one of the island’s highest peaks, where we are treated to the spectacular aerial acrobatics of a small colony of Red-billed Tropicbirds, often in the company of Short-tailed Swift and American Kestrel, before making a scenic drive back to the hotel for a sumptuous dinner.

Day 13:
St Lucia then onwards to Barbados
This morning, we head to a tiny northern village on the outskirts of which is a unique ecotone known to harbor many of the island’s indigenous and endemic species. Numerous target species of birds will join the myriad Gulf Fritillaries, Cloudless Sulphurs, and Great Southern Whites flitting all around us. Overhead, we are likely to see Lesser Antillean Swifts effortlessly manipulating the air currents; amongst the trees, colorful St. Lucia Warblers peering underneath leaves in search of caterpillars; overhanging tree limbs represent perfect vantage points for St. Lucia Pewees to launch attacks on winged insects; and an abundance of fruits ripening in the tropical sun proving an irresistible lure for opportunistic St. Lucia Orioles.

Lunch today is at what is surely the restaurant with the best view of Les Pitons – the island’s signature twin volcanic plugs which rise majestically out of, and contrast well with, the calm waters of the Caribbean Sea. After lunch, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Soufrière is ours to explore. In addition to strolling the narrow streets and getting a taste for coastal village life, we pause at a reliable site for Black Swift. Isolated groves of drought-tolerant trees line the small secondary roads of this coastal habitat, and here we will target the last of the four subspecies of Antillean House Wren endemic to individual islands in the Lesser Antilles; on St. Lucia it is Troglodytes aedon mesoleucus.

After our short hop across to the world-renowned holiday destination of Barbados we are collected by pre-arranged transport and make the 20-minute drive to our beachfront hotel. As dusk approaches, the West Indian mahogany trees that surround our hotel are filled with the calls of Scaly-naped Pigeons selecting their favored roosts, and the fluttering wings of Velvety Free-tailed Bats and the regional endemic Myotis nyctor as they set out to feed. Food is also on our minds. We set off from our hotel on a sunset stroll along the beach to the small fishing village of Oistins, where our farewell dinner will be a selection of freshly caught grilled fish and seafood (other meats and veggie-only options are available).

Day 14:
Barbados and departure
Popular with tourists the world over, this tiny island of breathtakingly beautiful beaches surrounded by turquoise seas shelters a few areas of prime birding habitat.

A short drive from our hotel is one of the most productive wetlands on the island, where this morning we have the opportunity for sightings of many of the island’s unique species, including nominate “Golden” Warbler, subspecies of Carib Grackle, endemic subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia, and of course the Barbados Bullfinch. Long, dangling aerial roots of Rhizophora mangle in the thickets at the water’s edge provide shelter for skulking Green Herons and Barbados Anoles, along with armies of fiddler crabs. While in the wetland, we will also have excellent opportunities for views of Grey Kingbirds, as well as up-close encounters with Antillean Crested Hummingbird. This is also prime habitat for troops of Vervet monkeys (“Barbados Green Monkey”).

The tour concludes with a hearty local buffet breakfast enjoyed overlooking the glistening waters of the Caribbean Sea.

To join us on this exciting birding adventure, contact our team at info@naturetravelbirding.com