Madagascar Birding trip report – 2024

Our birding adventure began as the group arrived in the vibrant capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo, known locally as Tana. Often called the “8th continent” because of its remarkable biodiversity, Madagascar is a top destination for birders. The group was eager to explore this incredible country and immerse themselves in its unique wildlife, including numerous Lemurs, Chameleons, Reptiles, and unique plants.

On our way to the hotel and around the hotel grounds we had some of our first birds, with us seeing, Madagascar Wagtail, Mascarene Martin, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Malagasy Bulbul, Red Fody, Malagasy Brush Warbler, and Madagascar Nightjar.

We gathered for a tasty meal and enjoyed catching up as we all know one another from previous trips. We chatted about our plans and expectations for the trip and enjoyed a great evening sharing stories about our travels and passion for birding. Everyone enjoyed a restful night after the long journey.

We kicked off our morning with an early start to head to the airport for our flight to Toliara, situated along the coast near the Tropic of Capricorn. The flight went smoothly, and we arrived on time with all our luggage intact. We took a breakfast break at a nearby hotel, where we enjoyed views of the Malagasy Bulbul and Common Jery.

As we drove toward Antsokay Arboretum, we spotted several bird species, including Common Newtonia, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Lark, and Madagascar Cisticola. A very vocal pair of Stripe-throated Jery and Sakalava Weavers also caught our attention, along with Olive Bee-eaters soaring overhead, adding to our growing list.

Upon reaching our charming accommodation at Antsokay Arboretum, we settled in and took a welcome break from the heat, enjoying some downtime and a delicious lunch. We then set out for a pleasant stroll through this fascinating botanical garden, filled with spectacular spiny forest plants. A few garden birds entertained us, providing great views of the Souimanga Sunbird and Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher.

Our walk proved rewarding, as we had an excellent sighting of a Red-capped Coua in the open-the Olivaceiceps race, other good birds seen included: Malagasy Coucal, Malagasy Kestrel, Madagascar Buttonquail, and more Malagasy Paradise Flycatchers. Our first night walk was also a success, where we observed a sleeping Grey-brown Mouse Lemur and encountered several reptiles, including Merrell’s Spiny Lizard, Gold-spotted Skink, and Pencil Snake. An Ornamental Wandering Spider kept some on their toes, while a stunning Oustalet’s Giant Chameleon was a fantastic find.

After such an exhilarating day, we gathered for a delightful meal, updated our lists, and discussed our plans for the following day. We shared thoughts about the incredible habitat diversity in Madagascar before settling in for a good night’s sleep.

Our morning began with a breathtaking sunrise over the spiny desert zone, accompanied by a cup of coffee.

We soon found ourselves exploring this unique habitat, focusing on some of the area’s special species. Among those we spotted were Lafresnaye’s Vanga, Chabert Vanga, a Subdesert Brush Warbler in the open, Verreaux’s Coua, and excellent views of a Red-shouldered Vanga, which was our main target for the morning. As the heat increased, we returned to our accommodation for a late breakfast before bidding farewell and heading north along the coastline to Ifaty.

We made a few birding stops along the way, where we enjoyed sightings of Dimorphic Egret, Caspian Tern, Western Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Great Egret, Kittlitz’s Plover, and fantastic views of the Madagascar Plover.

After checking into our lovely accommodation right by the ocean, we relaxed with a leisurely lunch and some downtime to escape the heat before venturing out to explore the nearby Andatabo Forest. Our afternoon was delightful, featuring great views of Subdesert Mesite, Red-capped and Running Coua, roosting Madagascar Nightjar, and Torotoroka Scops Owl, which provided wonderful photographic opportunities, as well as the Madagascar Sparrowhawk. One of the highlights of being in Madagascar is experiencing night walks in the forest to discover the island’s nocturnal wildlife. That evening, we spotted Dumeril’s Boa, a Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec that posed for us, a close-up view of a Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, Spiny and Long-nosed Chameleons, and a Long-tailed Ground Roller perched in a tree—this was a first for me, as we usually see this species on the ground during the day.

After such a successful day, we returned to our accommodation for a meal together, sharing stories about our exciting adventures and magical sightings. It was great to hear everyone’s highlights from the day. With our birding lists updated, we all retired for a restful night’s sleep, looking forward to another thrilling day in Madagascar.

This morning saw us, venturing into Reniala Forest Private Reserve at sunrise. Witnessing the sunrise over this remarkable spiny forest and searching for the unique and fascinating birds that inhabit this area is one of the highlights of any trip to Madagascar. One of the first birds we encountered was the stunning Sickle-billed Vanga, with a pair that showed themselves beautifully.

We then set out in pursuit of the much-sought after Long-tailed Ground Roller, which also provided us with excellent views!

Other notable birds seen for the morning included: Grey-headed Lovebird, Common and Stripe-throated Jery, Thamnornis, and Archbold’s Newtonia, all of which were very cooperative. A Madagascar Harrier-Hawk on its nest was a standout sighting, posing nicely for us, while a Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk was a delightful surprise. As we continued our walk, we enjoyed sightings of Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrots, as well as the Madagascan Sparrowhawk in the open. As the sun climbed higher, we left the spiny forest for a well-deserved late breakfast and took a long break during the heat of the day.

In the afternoon, we headed down the coast to a wetland area teeming with birdlife. We spotted several Squacco and Black Herons, Blue-billed Teals, Red-billed Teals, Little Grebes, and various waders, including Black-winged Stilts, Curlew Sandpipers, Common Ringed Plovers, and Kittlitz’s Plovers. The surrounding open areas also provided excellent views of common species we hadn’t spent much time observing, such as the Olive Bee-eater, Malagasy Coucal, Madagascan Cisticola, Madagascan Lark, and Red Fody. A Greater Painted Snipe treated us to fantastic views as we made our way back to the car. We attempted to lure out a calling Baillon’s Crake, but unfortunately, it remained hidden.

We returned to our lodge for a delicious dinner and enjoyed a few cold ones while chatting. It was nice to discuss various birding destinations we hope to explore and share stories from past trips. With our lists updated and our bellies full, we all retired for a restful night’s sleep.

Our morning started with breakfast overlooking the ocean before we said our goodbyes and ventured inland to Zombitse National Park. The drive through breathtaking landscapes was wonderful, and we took an excellent walk through Zombitse- A remarkable transitional forest, which is a fantastic birdwatching location. It didn’t take long for us to spot the area’s specialty, Appert’s Tetraka, one of the most localized bird species globally, found in just two forest patches. We also had great views of a pair of Rufous Vangas, as well as Madagascar Blue Vanga, Long-billed Berniera, Giant Couas, and several Cuckoo Rollers, including a male that we finally saw perched. Other highlights of our hike included the localized endemic Hubbard’s Sportive Lemur and a couple of family groups of Verreaux’s Sifaka. We also encountered a Sakalava Velvet Gecko, colourful Standing’s Day Geckos, and some impressive Adansonia baobab trees. We enjoyed a picnic lunch, during which we had to shoo away a pair of Giant Couas that clearly expected handouts, especially fond of tomatoes.

Continuing our scenic drive, we arrived at the stunning sandstone landscapes and Borassus palm savanna of Isalo National Park, where we checked into our amazing hotel. A highlight from our short walk around this beautiful area was spotting a White-browed Owl. We concluded the day with a fantastic dinner to celebrate another memorable experience.

An early morning walk around the hotel grounds before breakfast rewarded us with great views of a Forest Rock Thrush (known locally as Benson’s Rock Thrush), Greater Vasa Parrot, and Grey-headed Lovebirds. We also spotted a Malagasy White-eye and a Red Fody, while enjoying the amazing scenery of the area.

After enjoying a delightful breakfast, we departed from this tranquil oasis and embarked on the long drive to Ranomafana National Park. Our journey began through the stunning sandstone landscapes of Isalo National Park, followed by the striking yet altered scenery of the Horombe Plateau. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Anja Community Reserve, where a short walk led us to remarkable encounters with the high-altitude variety of Ring-tailed Lemur, as well as a couple of fascinating chameleons: the robust Oustalet’s Chameleon and the tiny, intricately patterned Bruno’s Leaf Chameleon, which is endemic to this small reserve.

Feeling rejuvenated, we continued our drive past vineyards and into the lush rice-growing regions, eventually reaching the higher elevation rainforests of the magnificent Ranomafana National Park. We paused at a waterfall for stunning views before arriving at our accommodation on the park’s edge, where we would stay for the next three days. Over a relaxing dinner, we discussed our plans for exploring this diverse area and the unique birds and wildlife we hoped to encounter. We fell asleep to the soothing sound of the river flowing below our cabins.

Our first morning in Ranomafana started off energetically as we entered the lower forest limits, kicking off an incredible day of birdwatching. We navigated the steep inclines and declines in search of our primary target, the stunning Brown Mesite, which made a memorable appearance. The forest was bustling with activity, and we quickly compiled an impressive list of species, including Velvet Asity, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Blue Coua, and finally, clear views of the Madagascar Cuckoo. We also spotted the charming Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Tylas Vanga, and had great looks at the Hook-billed Vanga. A highlight was seeing a Spectacled Tetraka on its nest and a pair of Malagasy Green Sunbirds.

The morning’s standout moment was witnessing a Pitta-like Ground Roller cross our path, allowing us to capture some amazing photographs—the best views I’ve ever had of this elusive species. We were also thrilled to observe several reptiles, including the beautiful Peacock Day Gecko, and we located both the Golden Bamboo Lemur and the Greater Bamboo Lemur. On our way out of the forest, we spotted a Leaf-tailed Gecko with its remarkable camouflage, along with an intriguing Giraffe-necked Weevil.

The afternoon session was equally thrilling as we focused on the elusive Scaly Ground Roller. After some patience and a bit of luck, we were rewarded with a pair of these stunning birds walking right in front of us—truly a special sighting. Other noteworthy birds included the Madagascar Forest Rail, Crossley’s Vanga, and Green Jery, along with a variety of new animals like the Milne-Edwards’s Sifaka, Madagascar Tree Boa, and more. Later, we embarked on a night walk where we encountered the Western Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, Rufous Mouse Lemur, Perinet Chameleon, O’Shaughnessy’s Chameleon, Blue-legged Chameleon, and the Madagascar Bright-eyed Frog. After a full day, we returned to our accommodations to enjoy dinner and share stories about our incredible experiences in the park. We even raised a few cold drinks to toast a fantastic day, reminiscing about other birding destinations we’ve explored and swapping travel tales.

This morning, saw us we opt for the Sahamalaotra trail, hoping to spot a few special birds we still needed. A quick stop at the park entrance rewarded us with great views of Madagascar Starling, Malagasy Black Swift, and the stunning Madagascar Blue Pigeon.

As soon as we began our hike, we were treated to a fantastic sighting of a Forest Rock Thrush posing for us. We then focused on specific species we were eager to find. Shortly after starting our trek, we heard the call of the Rufous-headed Ground Roller—a key target. With some effort, our persistence paid off, and we enjoyed a fantastic sighting of this elusive yet beautiful bird. We also spotted other great birds, including the Grey-crowned Tetraka, Red-fronted Coua, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, and Malagasy Brush Warbler. After a thrilling morning in this incredible forest, we returned to camp for lunch and a brief rest.

In the afternoon, we aimed to locate a few more species we still needed for the area. A quick stop along the way offered excellent views of a Forest Fody and a Nelicourvi Weaver busily building a nest, which was a joy to observe and photograph. Our walk along one of the shorter trails proved productive, yielding good looks at the Madagascar Blue Vanga, Ward’s Flycatcher, Pollen’s Vanga, and a Rainforest Scops Owl resting during the day. Pleased with our birding accomplishments, we headed back to camp for a delightful dinner, all while enjoying a beautiful sunset on the way. We discussed our plans and targets for the upcoming days before settling in for an early night, preparing for a long travel day ahead.

Our morning started with a delicious breakfast and coffee before we hit the road for a day of travelling towards Tana and the coast, with an overnight stop in Antsirabe. The road was busy, yet we still managed to see Purple and Black Herons, Great and Dimorphic Egrets, Hamerkop, Malagasy Kingfisher, Olive Bee-eater, Malagasy Kestrel, Crested Drongo, Mascarene and Brown-throated Martins and Madagascan Stonechat in the rice paddies on the journey.

We used the time to chat about birding and destinations we hoped to get to. We also learnt a lot about the country and its people from our local guide and took in some of scenery on the drive. Our lunch was enjoyed in Ambositra- the wood carving centre of the country, here we enjoyed seeing how the local people work the wood using a homemade scroll-saw. The rest of the drive was uneventful, and we arrived at our accommodation in the late afternoon to settle in and freshen up.

After a tasty breakfast, we were headed eastbound for the incredible rainforests of Andasibe. It was a largely bird less drive through rice paddies and eucalyptus plantations, but we did stop for a Hamerkop, Striated Heron, Grey Heron, Black Heron and Common Sandpiper.

Eventually, we arrived at our rainforest lodge set right on the edge of Analamazaotra national park.  We settled in and enjoyed our dinner while we went through the plans for the next two days in this incredibly diverse area. We all retired for a good sleep in preparation for tomorrow’s exciting day.

Our morning began with a delicious cup of coffee and breakfast before we set off to the stunning Mantadia National Park. Although the distance wasn’t far, the bumpy road slowed our journey. We made a planned stop at a small wetland, where we enjoyed excellent views of Madagascar Rail. Upon entering the primary forest, we made frequent stops along the way to search for the park’s unique avian gems. Our first highlight was the much-coveted Short-legged Ground Roller, and we were thrilled to spot a pair up close, completing our quest to see all the Ground Rollers during the trip. Next, we had the well camouflaged Collared Nightjar. Thanks to our remarkable local guide, who had a keen eye, we were rewarded with fantastic views and excellent photo opportunities of this sought-after bird.

We truly enjoyed our time in this special forest, where we also spotted a few other notable species, including an out of range White-browed Owl resting during the day, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Nuthatch Vanga, Wedge-tailed Jery, Forest Fody, and Nelicourvi Weaver. It was time for a picnic lunch, though our meal was interrupted by two exciting visitors: a stunning Baron’s Mantella, one of the world’s most beautiful frogs, and a family group of about seven Eastern Bamboo Lemurs, which showed themselves wonderfully.

After lunch, we set out to find a family of Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs. These striking and often elusive creatures put on quite a performance for us. On our way back to the lodge, we heard the calls of a Madagascar Flufftail and, with some effort, were rewarded with great views of a very accommodating bird.

In the late afternoon, we focused on locating the endangered and elusive Madagascar Ibis. After some searching, we finally spotted one perched in a tree above a forest pond. A nearby Rainforest Scops Owl also entertained us, providing excellent photo opportunities. As the rain clouds gathered, we decided to leave the forest and return to our comfortable lodge, where we could freshen up and enjoy a well-deserved meal after a successful day. We shared stories about our adventures over a few cold ones before heading to bed early, ready for another exciting day tomorrow.

On our last morning in the area, we decided to use our time to explore the Analamazoatra Reserve, hoping to fill in some gaps in our birding list. Although we heard a distant, Red-breasted Coua, it remained elusive despite our best attempts. However, we were rewarded with a couple of Indri high in a fruiting tree, delighting us with their remarkable calls—what an incredible experience!

We also enjoyed observing an adorable pair of Eastern Woolly Lemurs resting together.

The call of a White-throated Rail caught our attention, and with some strategic positioning, we were able to watch a bird feeding along the stream. We also discovered Anodonthyla pollicaris, one of the world’s tiniest frogs. Our perseverance paid off with a fantastic sighting of a Red-breasted Coua along the path, which was a highlight for everyone. Other notable birds we had during the morning included, Blue Coua, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Forest Rail, Cuckoo Roller, Malagasy Kingfisher, Nuthatch Vanga, and the beautiful but elusive Crossley’s Vanga.

The morning’s final highlight was the stunning Diademed Sifaka. Initially perched quietly in the trees, a family group suddenly swooped down at high speed, even brushing past a few of us. We watched them as they leisurely fed before making impressive leaps across the trail and through the large trees.

After a delicious lunch and a bit of downtime, we set out for an afternoon and night walk in the forest. To cap off a fantastic day, our night walk was fruitful. We spotted several Short-horned Chameleons, a large, White-lipped Bright-eyed Frog, a Parsons Chameleon, stunning orchids, and, to our delight, a couple of Goodman’s Mouse Lemurs that showed themselves beautifully at close range—a perfect ending to our day in the rainforests of Madagascar.

We enjoyed dinner back at our lodge, sharing stories about birds and the incredible places they lead us. With our lists updated and our bellies full, we all settled in for a good night’s sleep.

We had a leisurely breakfast before saying our goodbyes and heading east toward Akanin’ny Nofy and Le Palmarium Reserve, which protects about 50 hectares of coastal littoral rainforest and serves as a refuge for a variety of native wildlife. The drive was uneventful, but during our boat trip across the Pangalanes Channel to Ankanin’ny Nofy, we were thrilled to see a small flock of Madagascar Pratincoles up close—a major highlight. We enjoyed a relaxing lunch while watching the resident Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs engage in their playful antics.

In the afternoon, we took a walk on the protected island, where we had fantastic sightings of Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs, Indris, Crowned Lemurs, Black Lemurs, and Coquerel’s Sifakas. It was wonderful to observe these lemurs and capture some great photos.

As we travelled by boat to see the nocturnal Aye Ayes, we were treated to a stunning sunset over the lake. The island is home to a small population of eight Aye Ayes that live wild in the forested area. While they forage naturally, local rangers also provide coconuts each evening at a designated viewing spot, giving us excellent views of these rare and unique lemurs—a highlight for mammal enthusiasts.

We returned to our lovely lodge for a fantastic dinner, reminiscing about the trip’s highlights and discussing future adventures. Falling asleep to the soothing sound of waves lapping against the shore was incredibly relaxing.

Our morning began with a delicious cup of coffee and breakfast before we set off for Tana. During our boat ride back, we spotted several birds, including the Grey Heron, Striated Heron, White-faced Whistling Duck, Malagasy Coucal, Greater Crested Tern, and Crested Drongo.

The drive back to Tana took us through expansive cultivated areas, primarily rice paddies, where we encountered Black and Squacco Herons, a swift Hamerkop, and both Great and Dimorphic Egrets.

Upon returning to our comfortable hotel in Tana, where our journey began 14 days ago, we freshened up for dinner after a long day of travel.

Our final dinner, affectionately dubbed the last supper, was a wonderful evening filled with celebration. We reminisced about our fantastic trip, discussed birds and birding, and celebrated a birthday with delightful red wine and cake. We all retired for our last night in Madagascar, cherishing the memories we made.

We started our morning with breakfast and delicious coffee before heading to the Tsarasaotra wetland for our final birding session, hoping to spot a few more lifers for the group. The wetland is a sanctuary for waterbirds and provided a fantastic conclusion to our Madagascar birding adventure. We were welcomed by flocks of Red-billed Teal and White-faced Whistling Ducks, and soon spotted several Meller’s Duck—an endangered species that appears to be thriving in this area. We also encountered a few Blue-billed Teal and a pair of impressive Knob-billed Ducks.

Herons were plentiful, featuring large nesting colonies of Dimorphic Egret, Cattle Egret, Black Heron, Squacco Heron, and Black-crowned Night Heron. Though Great Egret and Striated Heron were present in smaller numbers, it took some effort to find the sought-after Malagasy Pond Heron, which we eventually spotted in full breeding plumage.

Along the lake’s edge, we found Common Moorhen and a single, Red-knobbed Coot, while a White-throated Rail strutted about, offering us incredible views. A few more common endemics, including Malagasy Kestrel, Red Fody, Malagasy Brush Warbler, and the charming Malagasy Kingfisher, capped off our last birding experience in this incredible country.

We headed back to the hotel to get ready for long haul flights before making our way to the airport to catch our flights home. Thanks to the group for being such wonderful guests and for the great time we had together. We all shared a good couple of laughs. A fantastic 15 days of birding in incredible and diverse Madagascar came to an end. We all had a blast and had an amazing time and left with a tear in the eye after a lovely trip. I would like to thank our local site guides, for the knowledge, and help in making the tour run so smoothly and for the hard work put in on the trip. Thanks to the Nature Travel Birding office for all the behind the scenes work that went on to ensure the tour was a success. I look forward to my next trip in the incredibly diverse and amazing Madagascar.