South India & South Andaman Birding Tour
Summary: Nature Travel birding hosted a birding tour to the Southern Indian states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, as well as the South Island of the Andamans, and have just returned after enjoying an unforgettable time.
We had a small group of participants, all of them having birded in “Incredible India” before. Therefore this tour was focused on finding the endemic species of the Western Ghats mountain range that straddles Kerala and Tamil Nadu, as well as the endemics of the Andaman islands.
A few of the participants arrived at the coastal city of Kochi in Kerala a day before the expedition officially started, and set about exploring all that the “Queen of the Arabian Sea” had to offer.
They visited the historic Mattancherry Palace and Jew Town (with its 16th century Paradesi Synagogue) before taking some stunning photographs of the famous Chinese fishing nets at sunset.
By the evening all participants had arrived, had dinner together and it was clear that everyone was very excited about the tour ahead.
Day 1: Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary and surrounds
We met up with our driver at the hotel and set off on our trip in our comfortable vehicle; the nervous excitement was palpable!
The first stop of the tour was the famous Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary to the northeast of Kochi. Here we met our local guide who would be with us for the duration of the trip.
The sanctuary is also known as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, named after Dr Salim Ali (1896 to 1987), India’s “Bird Man”, one of the best known ornithologist of the subcontinent. It was declared a sanctuary in 1983 and to date over 300 different species have been identified here. Although very small, covering an area of barely 25 km2 (10 sq mi), it is a prime birding destination in southern India. Thattekkad literally means “flat forest”, and the region is an evergreen lowland forest located between the branches of the Periyar river, the longest and most important river in the state of Kerala.
It was a short drive to our first birding spot on the outskirts of the sanctuary, a stunning location overlooking a valley with hills all around us. We had barely jumped out of the car when the ticking of special species started! Our first endemic species included Malabar Starling, colourful Malabar Barbet, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Blue-winged Parakeet, Nilgiri Flowerpecker, Crimson-backed Sunbird, striking Flame-throated Bulbul and Grey-fronted Green Pigeon. The non-stop kurrrrrrrrrrrr of White-cheeked Barbet would also become a constant companion on the tour.
We also ticked the near-endemic Yellow-browed Bulbul and Southern Hill Myna, along with other species like Thick-billed Flowerpecker, White-rumped Spinetail, Black-throated Munia, a pair of courting Heart-spotted Woodpeckers, Small Minivet, Indian Golden Oriole and Brown-breasted Flycatcher. What a great start to the tour!
After enjoying our packed breakfast we moved to another area on the outskirts of the sanctuary, where we picked up more fantastic species. Endemics included Malabar Woodshrike, impressive Malabar Flameback, Malabar Imperial Pigeon and a pair of mating Malabar Trogons. Other specials included Brown Fish Owl (the first of many owls on the tour), Sri Lanka Frogmouth, White-bellied Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, cyanota or “White-throated” subspecies of Orange-headed Thrush, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and many others.
It soon became too hot to bird (Kerala was just recovering from the grips of a serious heat wave, but it was still very hot and humid!) and we returned to our accommodation on the banks of the Periyar river for some lunch, rest and relaxation. From our lunch table we also ticked River and Whiskered Tern, White-browed Wagtail, Pied Kingfisher and Asian Openbill.
In the late afternoon we set off for yet another spot on the edge of the sanctuary, this one slightly more dry and open than the morning’s habitat. Here we picked up Grey Junglefowl, Red Spurfowl, endemic White-bellied Treepie, Blue-throated Blue Flycatcher and more. We staked out a well-known spot for some owls at sunset, but couldn’t locate any, although the Jerdon’s Nightjars flying around us did make up for that!
We returned to our lodge after a fantastic first day very satisfied and enjoyed dinner. The food was to become a real highlight of the trip. We all agreed that southern India’s food is the best in the country, with wonderful flavours and colours.
Day 2 : Thattekkad and surrounds
Our second day started with an early walk on the Dr Salim Ali trail inside the sanctuary. This well-marked and informative walk produced Fork-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Jungle Owlet, near-endemic Indian Swiftlet, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Red-rumped Swallow and many more.
After enjoying our packed breakfast with some tasty Masala tea from a roadside stall, we set off on another walk in a different part of the sanctuary. Here we picked up Blue-eared Kingfisher, Lesser Fish Eagle and Malayan Night Heron; a highlight for all participants!
We returned to our lodge in the heat of the day to rest and have lunch, and then went birding in a different area close to the sanctuary in the late afternoon. Here we connected with a Banded Bay Cuckoo after tracking its call on a boulder-strewn hillside. An interesting sighting we enjoyed while walking in a dry riverbed was a small snake devouring a frog. We later identified it as a Red-necked Keelback. As the light faded we got some great photographs of more Malabar Flamebacks and also ticked Great Eared Nightjar.
We had dinner at our accommodation and went to bed tired but happy.
Day 3: Thattekkad to Munnar
We had an early start this morning, and after checking out we headed east towards the hill station town of Munnar.
Our first stop was just after we crossed the historic Neriamangalam bridge (opened in 1935, it is the first Class A arch bridge in Asia) in a beautiful forest area. Here we picked up Little Spiderhunter, Dark-fronted Babbler, Vernal Hanging Parrot and the endemic and Near Threatened Grey-headed Bulbul, among others.
We continued our drive eastwards and upwards, marvelling at the stunning montane scenery and the verdant tea plantations as we got closer to Munnar. The fact that our driver gradually decreased the aircon’s fan speed told us we were thankfully heading to cooler climes…
We arrived at our perfectly located accommodation and settled in, ticking Indian White-eye and Indian Blue Robin at the small bird bath in the lodge gardens. We enjoyed a fantastic lunch and rested in our rooms for a bit.
The afternoon session was a walk in the lodge’s gardens and on the surrounding hillside. We got several endemics, including Black-and-orange Flycatcher, Vulnerable Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, Malabar Whistling Thrush, Near Threatened Palani Laughingthrush, Nilgiri Flycatcher, Vulnerable White-bellied Blue Robin and a surprise in the form of a gorgeous Nilgiri Thrush. Other cool birds on this exciting walk included Indian Scimitar Babbler, near-endemic Square-tailed Bulbul, Indian Blackbird, Indian Black-lored Tit, Tytler’s Leaf Warbler, Blue-capped Rock Thrush and a fantastic fly-by sighting of a Legge’s Hawk-Eagle.
We returned to the lodge as a very satisfied group, with several more endemics in the bag, along with some superb photographs of the hills of Munnar.
Day 4: Munnar and surrounds
Our day started early as we all hopped into our comfortable vehicle and set off to try and find the last one or two endemic species of the area around Munnar.
The town has a rich history tied to its role as a centre for tea cultivation during the British colonial period. Munnar’s cool climate and fertile slopes proved ideal for tea cultivation, leading to the establishment of numerous tea estates that continue to thrive today. The town’s colonial legacy is reflected in its tea museums and the preserved remnants of its colonial-era infrastructure.
We drove over some beautiful passes amongst tea plantations, along the outskirts of the vast Anayirangal Dam, and finally through some beautiful cardamom plantations. Our first stop, with views to die for, produced Hill Swallow, Booted Warbler and a very obliging Painted Bush Quail, all while we searched for Nilgiri Pipit.
Although the pipit proved elusive, we drove across the state border to Tamil Nadu to find a pair of endemic Yellow-throated Bulbuls and a singing Banded Bay Cuckoo next to another winding mountain pass. A roadside stop to enjoy some local cardamom tea proved very successful as we all laid eyes on another endemic, the Rufous Babbler.
We returned to our accommodation for a late lunch and an afternoon at leisure. Some members of the group simply relaxed, while a few went for a scenic jog.
In the evening we were treated to a cooking class by the owner and his wife in their squeaky clean kitchen, teaching us some lessons to take back home with which to impress our friends and families. After dinner we settled in for a good night’s rest.
Day 5: Munnar to Ooty
We were up very early to search for a very special bird. A tough hike up the mountainside behind the lodge was rewarded with fantastic views of the skulking Broad-tailed Grassbird, a poorly-known endemic that is very difficult to locate outside of the monsoon season; a highlight of the trip!
With our hearts still beating fast from the excitement of the grassbird, we hopped into our vehicle and set of for our next destination. We were heading even further up to the hill station of Ooty in the Nilgiri Hills.
The first stop was on the outskirts of the Eravikulam National Park to try and spot a very special mammal. Due to the closure of the park in March every year we had to be content by trying to spot our target from afar. A short search was rewarded with far-off views of several Nilgiri Tahrs, an Endangered mountain goat that is endemic to the Western Ghats! Another stop a short while later offered us great close-up views of Nilgiri Langur, yet another endemic and a Vulnerable species on the IUCN Red List.
We drove through Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary and Anaimalai Tiger Reserve, where the tea plantations and lush mountainsides gave way to much drier habitat. These two areas form an integral part of the 1,187 km2 (458 sq mi) block of protected forests straddling the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border in the Anaimalai Hills. They are also under consideration by UNESCO as part of The Western Ghats World Heritage Site.
Another stop on the plateau proved very successful, as we connected with Jerdon’s Bush Lark, Lesser Whitethroat, Sykes’s Warbler, near-endemic Yellow-billed Babbler, striking Blue-faced Malkoha, Indian Silverbill and several other species.
Before reaching our destination we had one more pass to traverse; the imposing Kalhatti Pass. It offers breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and the plateau and features over 40 hairpin bends! We were once again impressed with our driver’s skills.
A last highlight of the day was a huge Gaur bull eating grass in the tea plantation not far from the roadside. Gaur is also known as the Indian bison, a large and powerful species of wild cattle native to South and Southeast Asia. The Gaur is classified as Vulnerable by the IUCN due to habitat loss, fragmentation and poaching. The Gaur holds cultural significance in many indigenous communities across their range, often featuring in folklore, traditional rituals and art forms.
We reached our hillside hotel in the early evening and immediately had dinner in the restaurant. The food was delicious, but we were all tired after a long day on the road and went to bed early.
Day 6: Ooty to Mudumalai
We started the day with some birding close to the hotel. We soon realised why the local operator chose the specific hotel, for when the sun came up the views were breathtaking. It might also have been due to the fact that we were at 2,400 metres above sea level!
Our nearby stop provided some top species, including the endemic trio of Endangered Nilgiri Laughingthrush, Endangered Nilgiri Blue Robin and Vulnerable Nilgiri Pipit.
We returned to the hotel for a quick breakfast and the set off towards Mudumalai. The road took us through the town of Ooty and some more fantastic scenery. Ooty, short for Ootacamund, is a charming hill station established by the British in the early 19th century. It served as a popular summer retreat during the colonial era, with its cool climate and picturesque landscapes attracting British officials and aristocrats. Today, Ooty continues to captivate visitors with its lush tea plantations, scenic lakes, colonial-era architecture and vibrant cultural heritage.
A roadside stop after Ooty provided yet another endemic, namely Malabar Lark with its cute spiky crest.
We reached the park outskirts around midday and enjoyed views of hundreds of Chital (Spotted Deer) and a lone Sambar bull. The park is one of the country’s premier wildlife sanctuaries, known for its rich biodiversity and scenic landscapes. Established in 1940 as the first wildlife sanctuary in southern India, Mudumalai is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna, including endangered species such as the Tiger and Asian Elephant.
Our lodge, located in a buffer zone outside the park, had lunch ready for us when we arrived, and in the short walk back to the restaurant after dropping off our luggage we ticked Indian Nuthatch, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, White-bellied Drongo and White-browed Fantail!
After lunch and a short rest we set off to a different buffer zone area of the park. Here we walked among pockets of forest interspersed with agricultural activities and residential housing; a strange mix indeed. The birding however was far from strange, and we got several more top birds while unsuccessfully searching for Jungle Bush Quail. These included Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, White-rumped Munia, Large Cuckooshrike, White-spotted Fantail and many others. We also got a pair of roosting Jungle Nightjars and the most relaxed Indian Pitta ever!
We returned to our lodge for a scrumptious dinner and a good night’s rest.
Day 7: Mudumalai to Coimbatore
We were up early for a drive on a safari vehicle in the core area of the park.
Although we didn’t see a Tiger (our guide informed us that the chances in Mudumalai of seeing one was about 5%) we got several fantastic birds. The list included the previously elusive Jungle Bush Quail (a pair of them foraging close to the vehicle), Barred Buttonquail, White-bellied Minivet, Indian Roller, Yellow-throated Sparrow and many more.
We returned to the lodge for breakfast and to check out. A nice surprise just before we left was a 3 metre long Indian Rat Snake in the lodge grounds; an impressive specimen!
We then headed back the way we had come, stopping at an ultra-luxurious hotel outside Ooy for tea and biscuits, before going down to the plateau via a different pass, this one with “only” 36 hairpins! We reached our comfortable hotel in the city of Coimbatore in the afternoon and settled in.
The evening was spent in a bar in the hotel watching the opening ceremony and opening match of the 2024 season of the IPL. Even if you don’t know much about cricket, the IPL is a world class spectacle without equal! Cricket is basically a religion in India!
Day 8: Coimbatore to Port Blair (Andamans)
We got up very early to catch our flight from Coimbatore to Port Blair in the Andamans via Mumbai.
We were all very excited to start the second portion of our endemics trip. The Andaman Islands, situated in the Bay of Bengal, hold a fascinating blend of natural beauty and historical significance. In the colonial era, the islands served as a remote outpost for various European powers, including the British, who used them as a strategic base. Today, the Andaman Islands are renowned for their pristine beaches, lush rainforests and vibrant marine life, attracting travellers from around the world.
The flights to and from the Andamans can be quite complicated sometimes, so it was a bit strange having to take two flights to get there, but it gave us time to catch up on some listing and/or naps!
We met our new driver outside the (very modern) Veer Savarkar International Airport in Port Blair. It is the capital city of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, serving as the gateway to this remote archipelago. Steeped in history, Port Blair is home to the infamous Cellular Jail, a colonial-era prison where Indian freedom fighters were incarcerated during the British rule.
After a short drive to our hotel we checked in and took some photos of the beautiful grounds; we were a mere 100 yards from the beach. Then it was time to bird!
Our first stop was a wetland area on the southern part of the island. Here we picked up our first endemic, namely Andaman Teal. There were also hundreds of Pacific Golden Plovers, along with Eurasian Whimbrel, Common and Spotted Redshank, Tibetan and Greater Sand Plover, and many others.
A second wetland area thrilled us with Baillon’s Crake, Oriental and Black-browed Reed Warbler, Yellow Bittern, Watercock and others.
On our drive back to the hotel we stopped at a well-known stakeout for Andaman Masked Owl, but unfortunately the bird was nowhere to be seen.
We had a great dinner in the hotel restaurant and headed to bed, knowing tomorrow would be filled with endemics!
Day 9: Andamans
We started out day with a short drive to the north to catch a 15 minute ferry ride to another part of the island. The sunrise photos we took on the ferry were spectacular! Species seen from the ferry included Black-naped Tern, Pacific Reef Heron and White-bellied Sea Eagle.
Our first stop, once off the ferry, and after enjoying our packed breakfast, was at a small roadside wetland, where we connected with a very photogenic Slaty-breasted Rail.
Next up was a forested area known by locals as the “cemetery” area. Here the specials came rolling in non-stop, and we ticked Andaman Drongo, Andaman Green Pigeon, Andaman Treepie, Andaman Bulbul, Andaman Cuckooshrike, Andaman Woodpecker, Andaman Flowerpecker, Andaman Shama and Andaman Cuckoo-Dove. However, the highlight among highlights was an Andaman Crake feeding not even 7 feet from us in the undergrowth!
Other special species included tytleri subspecies of Long-tailed Parakeet, Asian Glossy Starling, andamanensis subspecies of White-headed Starling, andamanensis subspecies of Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Japanese Sparrowhawk, andamanicus subspecies of Ornate Sunbird, humei subspecies of White-breasted Woodswallow, Indian Cuckoo, andamana subspecies of Large Cuckooshrike, andamanensis subspecies of Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and many others. What a morning!
On our way back to the ferry we stopped at a natural crocodile farm to try and spot some of these feared reptiles. While we didn’t see any, we did tick a very obliging Mangrove Whistler.
We took the ferry back and as we stepped off we ticked another endemic, the Andaman Coucal.
We enjoyed lunch at the hotel and rested until mid-afternoon. After the colder weather at Munnar and Ooty on the mainland we were once again treated to some serious heat and humidity on this tropical island.
Our afternoon birding session had us driving in the area of the Sippighat salt marshes. Here we ticked Oriental Pratincole, Long-toed Stint, Black-capped Kingfisher and the always difficult-to-see Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler.
We then drove to a very secret spot for some owling. Little did we know what the evening had in store! We connected with no less than 3 endemic species! Hume’s Boobook, Andaman Scops Owl and Andaman Boobook all showed very well and even offered us some photographic opportunities!
As a bonus, on the way back to the hotel we stopped at the stakeout for the “barn owl”, and lo and behold we got it! Andaman Masked Owl in the bag!
We returned to the hotel and celebrated with a cold beer and a great dinner.
Day 10: Andamans
We were up again before sunrise to once again get on the ferry and head north.
We spent the morning walking up and down the beautiful forests of Mount Harriet National Park, recently officially renamed as Mount Manipur National Park. The park is named after Harriet Tytler, the wife of a British officer who was stationed on the islands, remembered for her work in documenting the monuments of Delhi and for her notes at the time of the Revolt of 1857 in India. The park is known for its lush tropical rainforests, diverse flora and fauna, and panoramic views from its highest point, Mount Harriet, which offers stunning vistas of the surrounding islands and the Bay of Bengal.
We ticked some more special birds on our walk, including Andaman Wood Pigeon, andamanensis subspecies of Changeable Hawk-Eagle, andamanensis subspecies of Orange-headed Thrush, andamanica subspecies of Asian Fairy Bluebird and many others. Our search for Andaman Serpent Eagle proved unsuccessful however. We did see a pair of Masked Palm Civets to sort of make up for the lack of the eagle though.
We returned via the ferry to our hotel in the heat of the day and had a wonderful lunch of “fish & chips”, and had a short rest.
In the afternoon we headed south toward the Chidiya Tapu area. Here we ticked Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeet, Himalayan Cuckoo and several others. As light faded we had superb views of Andaman Nightjar and Oriental Scops Owl.
We returned to our hotel and had dinner, sad that out time on the island was almost up.
Day 11: Andamans to the mainland, end of tour
Our final day started early as our local guide had a feeling we could still tick the final endemic we needed on the island.
We headed to Chidiya Tapu again and as luck (or fate) would have it, we got Andaman Serpent Eagle. All the Andaman endemics ticked!
We made our way to the airport in the late morning and caught our flight back to the mainland, this time to the city of Chennai.
Our fantastic tour ended at the Chennai International Airport, where we got together for a final cup of spiced tea and a debrief session.
In total we managed to see all the endemics that was possible in the areas we birded. We couldn’t come up with just one “bird of the trip”, so we settled on a top 5, in no particular order: Broad-tailed Grassbird, Malabar Trogon, Nilgiri Thrush, Andaman Crake and Andaman Boobook. We also saw some unique and rare mammals, interesting reptiles and numerous beautiful butterflies.
We agreed that southern India is a great destination for experienced birders and newbies alike; two of the participants got almost 150 lifers on the trip despite having birded in India twice before! The food was excellent, the birding not too difficult, the scenery wonderful and the species unique and special. Incredible India indeed!