South India & South Andaman Birding Tour Trip Report
Guide: Marc Cronje
Nature Travel Birding recently hosted a tour to the southern Indian state of Kerala and the South Andaman Islands. We have just returned from an incredible time birding this diverse and rewarding region. This tour followed a 16-day birding trip in Sri Lanka (see separate trip report).
Our small group of four participants had birded in parts of Asia before, so the focus of this extension was on finding the endemic species of the Western Ghats mountain range in Kerala, as well as the unique endemics of the Andaman Islands.
Our flights from Sri Lanka into Kochi went smoothly, and before long we found ourselves heading towards the hill station of Munnar. As we drove eastward and gradually climbed higher, we marvelled at the stunning montane scenery and endless verdant tea plantations. Upon arrival we checked in, enjoyed another delicious dinner together, and it was clear that everyone was excited about the birding ahead.
Day 1: Munnar and surrounds, transfer to Thattekkad
Our day began early with a cup of tasty chai before we climbed into our comfortable vehicle to target some of the special birds around Munnar.
The town has a rich history tied to tea cultivation during the British colonial period. Munnar’s cool climate and fertile slopes proved ideal for tea production, leading to the establishment of numerous estates that continue to thrive today. The town’s colonial legacy is reflected in its tea museums and remnants of colonial-era infrastructure.
Our first stop was extremely birdy. As soon as we stepped out of the vehicle the birds appeared thick and fast. Highlights included Little Spiderhunter, Dark-fronted Babbler, Vernal Hanging Parrot and the endemic and Near Threatened Grey-headed Bulbul, among others.
As we made our way up the hillside the bird activity remained excellent. Noteworthy sightings included Grey-fronted Green Pigeon, Malabar Barbet, Black-and-orange Flycatcher, the Vulnerable Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Palani Laughingthrush, White-bellied Blue Robin (also known as White-bellied Sholakili), Nilgiri Flycatcher, Malabar Whistling Thrush, Blue-capped Rock Thrush, Nilgiri Flowerpecker and the stunning Crimson-backed Sunbird. We enjoyed breakfast overlooking a breathtaking valley.
We then drove over beautiful mountain passes lined with tea plantations, along the edge of the expansive Anayirangal Dam, and through fragrant cardamom plantations. Our next stop, with spectacular views, produced Hill Swallow, Booted Warbler and a very obliging Painted Bush Quail – a truly stunning bird. The Nilgiri Pipit required some effort but eventually rewarded us with close views. An out-of-range Short-toed Snake Eagle was an unexpected bonus.
During the drive from Munnar to Thattekkad we spent time learning more about the Kerala region and reviewing the species we hoped to encounter there.
After arriving at our comfortable and homely lodge, where we would stay for the next three nights, we enjoyed another excellent lunch. A short rest during the heat of the day was appreciated by all, and some of us even managed a scenic jog.
Our afternoon birding session was highly productive, with great sightings of Grey Junglefowl, White-bellied Treepie, Malabar Starling, White-cheeked Barbet and a very cute Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl chick at its nest. The fluffy youngster was beginning to explore and stretch its wings. What a fantastic start to our time in incredible India.
Day 2: Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary and surrounds
Our morning began with a cup of chai before heading to the famous Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary, northeast of Kochi. The sanctuary is also known as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, named after Dr. Salim Ali (1896–1987), India’s “Bird Man” and one of the subcontinent’s most renowned ornithologists.
Declared a sanctuary in 1983, more than 300 species have been recorded here. Although small—covering barely 25 km²—it remains one of the premier birding destinations in southern India. The name Thattekkad literally means “flat forest,” referring to the evergreen lowland forest located between the branches of the Periyar River, the longest and most important river in Kerala.
A short drive brought us to our first birding site overlooking a beautiful valley surrounded by hills. We had barely stepped out of the vehicle when the list of special birds began growing quickly.
Our first endemics included Malabar Starling, Asian Fairy-bluebird, the colourful Malabar Barbet, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Blue-winged Parakeet, Nilgiri Flowerpecker, Crimson-backed Sunbird, striking Flame-throated Bulbul and Grey-fronted Green Pigeon. The constant “kurrrrrrr” calls of the White-cheeked Barbet soon became a familiar soundtrack to the trip.
We also recorded the near-endemic Yellow-browed Bulbul and Southern Hill Myna, along with Thick-billed Flowerpecker, White-rumped Spinetail, Black-throated Munia, a pair of courting Heart-spotted Woodpeckers, Small Minivet, Indian Golden Oriole and Brown-breasted Flycatcher. It was an excellent start to the morning.
After enjoying our packed breakfast, we moved to another area on the outskirts of the sanctuary, where we found even more highlights. Endemics included Malabar Woodshrike, the impressive Malabar Flameback, Malabar Imperial Pigeon and a pair of beautiful Malabar Trogons. Other specials included Sri Lanka Frogmouth, White-bellied Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, the cyanota (“White-throated”) subspecies of Orange-headed Thrush, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and many more.
As temperatures climbed and bird activity slowed, we returned to our lodge for lunch. Even from the dining table we managed to add River Tern, Whiskered Tern, White-browed Wagtail, Pied Kingfisher and Asian Openbill.
In the late afternoon we visited another birding area on the edge of the sanctuary, this one slightly drier and more open. Here we recorded Grey Junglefowl, Red Spurfowl, the endemic White-bellied Treepie, Blue-throated Blue Flycatcher and several others.
We then staked out a well-known location for nightjars and enjoyed excellent sightings of both Jerdon’s Nightjar and Great Eared Nightjar—remarkable birds.
After a fantastic day we returned to the lodge for dinner. The food would become a real highlight of the tour, and we all agreed that southern India offers some of the best cuisine in the country, with wonderful flavours and colours.
Day 3: Thattekkad and surrounds
Our day began with an early walk along the Dr. Salim Ali Trail inside the sanctuary. This well-marked and informative route produced Fork-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Jungle Owlet, the near-endemic Indian Swiftlet, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Red-rumped Swallow and many others.
While enjoying our packed breakfast with delicious masala tea from a roadside stall, we also picked up Blue-eared Kingfisher, Lesser Fish Eagle and an incredible close sighting of Malabar Flameback.
We returned to the lodge during the heat of the day for lunch and rest before heading out again in the afternoon to a different area near the sanctuary.
Here we tracked down a calling Banded Bay Cuckoo on a boulder-strewn hillside. A stop along the river produced great views of River Tern, and a small bird party yielded Loten’s Sunbird, Jungle Babbler, Dark-fronted Babbler, Rufous Treepie, Bronzed Drongo, Heart-spotted Woodpecker and the impressive Black-rumped Flameback.
As the light faded, we headed out for some owling and, with a bit of persistence, enjoyed great views of a pair of Mottled Wood Owls.
Dinner back at the lodge was followed by an early night. We were all very excited for the next leg of the tour: the Andaman Islands.
Day 4: Kochi to Port Blair (Andamans)
An early start saw us catching our flight from Kochi to Port Blair via Bangalore.
The Andaman Islands, located in the Bay of Bengal, combine spectacular natural beauty with fascinating history. During the colonial era the islands served as a remote outpost for European powers, particularly the British, who used them as a strategic base. Today the islands are renowned for pristine beaches, lush rainforests and vibrant marine life.
Flights to the Andamans can sometimes be complicated, so our two-flight journey gave us time to catch up on our lists and enjoy a short nap.
We met our new driver and guide outside the very modern Veer Savarkar International Airport in Port Blair, the capital of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands and the gateway to this remote archipelago. The city is also home to the infamous Cellular Jail, where Indian freedom fighters were imprisoned during British rule.
After checking into our hotel—located just 100 yards from the beach—we headed out for our first birding session.
Our first wetland stop produced the endemic Andaman Teal, along with hundreds of Pacific Golden Plovers, Eurasian Whimbrel, Common and Spotted Redshank, Tibetan and Greater Sand Plover and many other shorebirds. On the way out we also enjoyed a great sighting of the endemic Andaman Coucal.
A second wetland produced Baillon’s Crake, Oriental Reed Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, Yellow Bittern, Watercock, Grey Wagtail, Curlew Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Grey-headed Swamphen and large flocks of Plume-toed Swiftlets overhead.
A stop at a known stakeout for Andaman Masked Owl unfortunately produced no sign of the bird.
After a satisfying dinner at the hotel we headed to bed, excited for a full day of Andaman endemics the following morning.
Day 5: Andaman Islands
A beautiful morning greeted us as we headed north to a forested area known locally as the “Cemetery” site. Here the endemics began appearing almost immediately, and we enjoyed an outstanding morning of birding. Among the highlights were Andaman Drongo, Andaman Wood Pigeon, Andaman Green Pigeon, Andaman Treepie, Andaman Bulbul, Andaman Cuckooshrike, Andaman Woodpecker, Andaman Flowerpecker, Andaman Shama and Andaman Cuckoo-Dove. It was an incredible morning in the Andamans, filled with colourful and highly sought-after birds.
Our birding continued after breakfast, producing the tytleri subspecies of Long-tailed Parakeet, Asian Glossy Starling, the andamanensis subspecies of White-headed Starling, the andamanensis subspecies of Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Violet Cuckoo, the andamanicus subspecies of Ornate Sunbird, the humei subspecies of White-breasted Woodswallow, Indian Cuckoo, the andamana subspecies of Large Cuckooshrike and the andamanensis subspecies of Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, among many others. The final highlight for the area was a perched Andaman Serpent Eagle that gave us superb views through the scope.
On our drive back we made several stops, adding an obliging Mangrove Whistler and a beautiful Ruddy Kingfisher to our growing list. The nearby wetlands produced good sightings of Lesser Whistling Duck, Andaman Teal at close range, Common Moorhen, Wood Sandpiper and White-bellied Sea Eagle.
We returned to the hotel for lunch and a short rest during the heat of the day. A few of us took a leisurely walk along the beach, where we observed Pacific Reef Heron fishing along the shoreline.
Our afternoon birding session took us to the Sippighat salt marsh area. Here we recorded Oriental Pratincole, Long-toed Stint, Black-capped Kingfisher and the notoriously elusive Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler.
As the light faded we were treated to excellent views of Andaman Nightjar and Oriental Scops Owl—an exciting end to a very productive day.
Back at the hotel we celebrated with a cold beer and another excellent dinner.
Day 6: Andaman Islands
Once again, we were up before sunrise as we headed north to explore the forests of Mount Harriet National Park, recently renamed Mount Manipur National Park.
The park was originally named after Harriet Tytler, the wife of a British officer stationed on the islands. She was known for documenting the monuments of Delhi and recording events during the Revolt of 1857. The park is renowned for its lush tropical rainforest, rich biodiversity and spectacular viewpoints. From Mount Harriet itself, visitors can enjoy sweeping vistas across the surrounding islands and the Bay of Bengal.
Our morning walk through the forest produced several excellent sightings including Andaman Wood Pigeon, the andamanensis subspecies of Changeable Hawk-Eagle, the andamanensis subspecies of Orange-headed Thrush and the andamanica subspecies of Asian Fairy-bluebird. Other birds seen included Oriental Dollarbird, Small Minivet, Scarlet Minivet, Ashy Minivet, Vernal Hanging Parrot and Asian Glossy Starling.
By late morning the heat had begun to build, so we returned to our hotel where we enjoyed a wonderful lunch of “fish and chips” followed by a short rest. Some of us also managed a scenic jog along the beachfront.
In the afternoon we headed south towards the Chidiya Tapu area, another excellent birding site on the island. Here we recorded Red-breasted Parakeet, Long-tailed Parakeet, Alexandrine Parakeet, Collared Kingfisher and Black-naped Tern among others.
As evening approached, we drove to a very secret location for some owling. None of us could have predicted just how successful the evening would be. We were thrilled to connect with no fewer than three endemic owl species. Hume’s Boobook, Andaman Scops Owl and Andaman Boobook all showed exceptionally well and even provided some fantastic photographic opportunities.
We returned to our hotel for dinner, already feeling nostalgic as our final day on the islands approached.
Day 7: Andaman Islands to mainland India – End of tour
Our final day began early, as a few of us were still hoping to see one last endemic species. We headed to a final location in search of Andaman Crake. After some patient searching and persistence we were rewarded with excellent views of this shy and elusive species—a perfect way to conclude our time in the Andamans.
Later in the morning we made our way to the airport for our flight back to the Indian mainland, this time heading to the city of Chennai.
Our fantastic tour concluded at Chennai International Airport, where we gathered one last time for a final cup of spiced tea and a short debrief of the trip.
Tour Summary
In total we managed to see all the endemic species possible within the areas we birded. Choosing a single “Bird of the Trip” proved impossible, so we settled on a Top Five (in no particular order):
- Andaman Woodpecker
- Malabar Trogon
- Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl
- Andaman Boobook
- Andaman Wood Pigeon
In addition to the outstanding birding, we also encountered several interesting mammals, reptiles and numerous beautiful butterflies.
We all agreed that southern India is a fantastic destination for birders of all experience levels. The birding is rewarding without being overly difficult, the scenery is spectacular and the diversity of endemic species is remarkable. The food throughout the trip was also exceptional, with southern India offering some of the most flavourful and colourful cuisine in the country.
I would like to thank our local site guides for their knowledge, dedication and hard work in ensuring the tour ran smoothly. A special thanks also goes to the Nature Travel Birding office for all the behind-the-scenes planning that made this tour such a success.
I look forward to my next adventure in Incredible India.